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RE: NADA and Used Class A's
My advice is to check the NADA price without adding in any options. They really have no real market value for a used coach.
Take the low retail and deduct about 20%. That gets you to about the dealer wholesale price. Negotiate up from this amount, not down from an asking price, so that should be your first offer.
A seller may be willing to accept an offer that covers what they have in it just to get some cash flow.
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UltraKen
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11/21/08 09:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Macerator
I've used macerator pumps since 1991. My first RV was a Corvair powered Ultra Van which was the fist RV to use macerators in the 1960s.
If you use black tank chemicals repairs are not as bad as working with raw sewage. Obviously rubber gloves are a must, but the chemicals break down the solids and mask the odor.
Other than toilet paper you should only put what you've consumed into your black tank. But, that should be the rule whatever dumping system you use.
On my current coach the previous owner installed a Jabsco macerator permanently. The end of the output is a garden hose fitting with a brass cap. I carry a 10ft hose and a 50ft hose.
Hoses are kept coiled with the male and female ends screwed together to prevent any leakage.
I have a sewer line clean out trap in my front yard about 40 ft from the driveway. First operation on arriving home is to dump the tanks. It doesn't really matter how long it takes, but in fact there is less wrestling with hose and the process is only marginally slower than with a slinky.
I find it clean, easy, and allows a variety of options for dumping. I have on occasion slipped a gas station attendant $5 to let me run the hose into the mens room toilet in an "emergency". :B
You can't do that with a slinky...
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UltraKen
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11/20/08 08:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Best web site to look for Used RV
When I was searching for a used RV I found a number of sites. Each has something to offer, and depending on what you want you should be able to find something suitable by searching all of these.
I ran through each one about once a week, but I knew what I wanted - a Safari Sahara 35' either '94, 95, or '96. Took awhile but I found exactly what I wanted.
The first one is a sort of clunky Craig's list search engine that lets you access every Craig's List in the country. The rest are pretty similar classified listings that you just need to fool with a bit to narrow your searches down to what you want.
Btw, you should check the NADA listings for pricing. Don't add any of the options - they make little difference in real price. Use the low end retail and take off about 20% to estimate dealer wholesale for used coaches, and negotiate up from there.
http://craigslist.thingweb.com/
http://www.rv-online.com/
http://ww2.rvtraderonline.com/
http://usedmotorhome.com/search.asp
http://www.nationalmultilist.com/find_rv.php
http://www.rvsearch.com/
http://www.rvclassified.com/adsearch1m.htm
Good luck,
Ken
96 Safari Sahara- 3530, 35', CAT 300
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UltraKen
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11/20/08 07:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shower curtain mold
X 14 Is what we have used for years... Very effective in killing and getting rid of black mold..
JohnnyT
That's pretty effective on mold.
Another excellent product for mold is Vroom, from Camping World. We have one area of our house where moisture tends to collect and the vinyl siding gets moldy. X-14 works on it with some elbow grease added. Vroom sprayed on and just wiped it off.
Mold and mildew will come back but you can remove it with the right products pretty easily.
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UltraKen
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11/20/08 06:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Low main batteries on 07 Fleetwood Discovery
If you store your coach outdoors then an even easier solution is a solar panel.
My Safari came with a 25W solar panel standard. It keeps the chassis batteries charged through the winter -- though I also take the coach our for at least a 50 mile run about once a month.
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UltraKen
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11/16/08 11:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: exercising MH during winter
You should drive your coach around 50 miles once a month to keep internal parts and beaings lubricated and to generate enough heat to eliminate moisture/condensation in the engine oil and transmission.
I leave my coach plugged in at home. You won't recharge batteries in a couple of hours. I also agree with running the generator for at least an hour each month. You could do that while driving your 50 miles. Turn on all the A.C. lights, the refrig on A.C., plug in a small electric heater and have an enjoyable drive.
Just pick a day with decent weather - you don't have to do this exactly every 30 days, but you should average about once a month.
Also, leave the refrig turned off during storage WITH the doors open otherwise you will get mildew and odors.
Also, after draining your tanks, run the water pump for a fewe moments to purge it of water. And be sure to drain the water heater.
Ken
96 Safari Sahara- 3530, 35', CAT 300
This is my first year for being a MH owner and this forum has been a huge help. I need some help on this and can't really find it in the past, so here goes,
I found a year round campground about an hour from my house and I am leaving the MH on a site w/ power and sewer (water turned off for the winter). I plan on visiting for the weekend at least once a month. I havn't seen any checklists for exercing the MH, so here is my plan, (I own a 2006 36' Georgie Boy Landau and live in SE MI)
Leaving: water system is winterized, drain holding tanks, put antifreeze into drains and tanks, put sta-bil in a full gas tank, power left unpluged, sewer hose left in the compartment, coach left up on the levelers, house batteries disconnected, slides in, curtains drawn, no windows or vents open, covers over the tires and 2 roof top ac units,
Visiting monthly: turn on house batteries, run out the 3 slides, start the generator (run for at least 1 hour) turn on furnace, turn on a 1500watt space heater, turn on refrig, bring in water from home, use the cg bathrooms but also use water from home for washing dishes and using the holding tanks
I am sure I missed a few things, like what should I do about the engine of the MH? When to start, leave on for how long, should I drive it around the cg each month?
I know that at some point I will have to drive over the to propane filling area and fill up on propane. Is this often enough for the MH?
Thanks for any help I might recieve from this post
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UltraKen
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11/09/08 10:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How long to keep one
Douglas:
We traveled in a 22ft vintage Ultra Van with 150 lb Newfoundland dogs (one at a time). It was do-able. We bought a '96 non-slide DP a year ago and have plenty of room, but we are accustomed to stepping over a "bear-skin rug" at home.
When you move up from a 22 footer to a 35' you really don't feel any need for more space. We don't need slides, we can easily accomodate 4 guests in the living room, and I don't care for the chopped up space when slides are retracted. It might be different if we stayed in one location for long periods of time, but we tend to move around a lot and wouldn't make much use of slides.
It all comes down to life-style issues and how you use the coach. We have very little invested in a 13 year old coach that is in practically brand new condition. It was a fairly high end coach when new and has all the features we need, though lacks a few that might be nice if money were no object. The coach had just under 60,000 miles when I bought it and will last longer than I will. :C
The minor maintenance and "aging" issues cost far less than any monthly payment. Less money spent on the coach means more available for fun things.
BTW, we are about 2 miles south of 30W (Ada, OH).
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UltraKen
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11/08/08 06:47am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Where is the quality
I think the major source of the problem is that the manufacturer only has quality control over a few parts of the coach. Engine and chassis come from a few truck oriented companies and are generally produced under high levels of quality control.
Virtually everything else except the actual box comes from different suppliers with varying degrees of quality control. In addition, they are often adapted to fit the box by people who are not closely associated with their design, specifications, and issues.
Finally, the road environment for a motorhome is much more severe than a car or truck, considering all of the different parts that are involved.
All of that is the basis of the argument that some of us advance that a gently used coach may be a less frustrating experienc because someone else has taken care of the issues.
Ken
96 Safari Sahara- 3530, 35', CAT 300
I purchased a new DP a year ago, $250,000 and have had SO many problems (big and small).From watching this site, I am amazed that there are SO many problems. I have purchased many new cars over the years and have had very few problems.Very few problems with a new house. With the DP I have experienced problems such as furnaces that stop, water heaters that dont work, burnt out circuit boards, steps that wont extend, lights that dont work, misaligned doors and poorly installed cabinets and wood work and the worst was that trip to Michigan when my full wall slide would not retract. Everyone on this site seems to take it for granted that we have so many problems. Thank God we have this site so that we can help each other with these problems. You people have been so much help to me. For the money that we pay for these units you wold think that the manufacturers would be more quality oriented and careful durring the manufacturing process. Why dont they select better vendors for the accessories. Why do we put up with this?
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UltraKen
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10/22/08 10:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HD Converter with Bat Wing amplified antenna
OK. I checked out the connections to the switch box.
I think the problem is 4 inputs for a 3 input box. I didn't get to fully check the A-B separate switch box, but it looks like is was used to add the DVD to the mix.
The four inputs are: Antenna, VCR, Rear Monitor, and DVD.
A few of the cables are very short and it's difficult to see the connections. I'm going to swap some of these out with longer cables so I can actually see what the A-B switch connections are.
I was able to confirm that the main switch box seems to be working properly for the inputs that it has. I'm increasingly sure that the problem is the way the DVD was added.
:R
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UltraKen
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10/14/08 07:01am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HD Converter with Bat Wing amplified antenna
Thanks.
I'm in NW Ohio, near Lima. If I can't figure this out I may pay you a visit. :B
I'm going to did into this again, and make a chart of the connections. Then I'll disconnect each cable and note the effect on each TV with all four inputs (TV, VCR, Rear Monitor, and DVD). Hopefully a systematic approach will get me somewhere.
BTW, There is also a separate A-B switch. :h
Ok, box is seriously mis-cabeled. If you are in S.E. Michigan I can likely figure it out for you (Way easier than trying to tell you how to do it over the internet) but I can say this.. To figure it out you need to trace the cables, there are several ways to do this.
One way is The rooftop ANT cable by visual tracking.. See note below on this one
The other cables, some of 'em you may be able to figure out by visual tracking but you have some serious issues if the DVD works on AUX (It should not)
So I'd have to dig into it to tell you more.. It is likely there are other issues there too.
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UltraKen
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10/13/08 06:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HD Converter with Bat Wing amplified antenna
Well, since the amplifier is up on the roof between the two wings you don't have much choice
However if you mean should it be hooked up before or after the POWER supply. (The wall plate in with the button and light) after, it goes between that plate and the Television, do not put ANYTHING between the antenna and the power supply except in one special case... That's if you have the "Flexvision" type video distribution system (Box with many buttons, Flexvision is one brand/model)
In that special case.. Post for additional directions
There is a switch box in the overhead next to the tv. The VCR and DVD are connected into it. None of the push buttons - TV AUX VCR, etc seem to do anything, but the DVD only works when the AUX button is pushed, and neither my son nor I could come up with a hook up that would play the DVD in the bedroom.
There were a bunch of little paper tags that had apparently been attached to the cables but had fallen off. I guess one of the previous owners did some sort of "re-wiring" at some point and things were not hooked up correctly.
I need to get in there and disconnect one cable at a time and see what is affected so I can sort this mess out. I'll do that as soon as I get a "round Tuit".
And to those who corrected me, yes - I should have said digital converter.
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UltraKen
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10/12/08 07:12am |
Class A Motorhomes
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HD Converter with Bat Wing amplified antenna
Should the HD converter be hooked in before the signal amplifier or after it? The single bat-wing supplies signal to two TVs, one in the living area and one in the bedroom.
I suppose the instructions would provide an answer but I haven't even gotten my coupon yet. :W
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UltraKen
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10/11/08 05:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Just Polished the Wheels
Mini-Polishing ball. Can't remeber if it's by Mother's or Maguires. Cost about $20. Attaches to your hand power drill. Has a flexible shaft and works great on the lug nuts and small crevices.
I just polished the wheels with Mother's Polish and Microfiber rags. They are really looking great, but IS THERE AN EASIER WAY. I'm too lazy to do that very often.
I had used the spray on stuff that was supposed to float away all the bad stuff and leave them looking new...Nothing that easy ever works for me.
I spent the $25 and tried the touted wheel brush (drill motor variety) that was supposed to take all the work out of it. It sort of worked, but the only way to get the right shine was elbow grease.
Also, how do you clean around the lug nut covers? There is a lot of corrosion, especially in back and I couldn't make it much better.
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UltraKen
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10/11/08 05:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Batteries cancelled my outing
One more thing.
You might want to check with your engine manufacturer about long idle times.
I believe both CAT and Cummins recommend AGAINST long idle times, but check with the manufacturer yourself.
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UltraKen
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10/11/08 05:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Batteries cancelled my outing
A solar panel would help considerably in your situation.
My coach has an OEM 25W solar panel with a controller. It keeps the chassis batteries charged all winter.
I do drive the coach once a month for 50 to 100 miles per CAT recommendations.
Ken
96 Safari Sahara- 3530, 35', CAT 300
rayw: Yes, I know the genset doesn't charge the chassis batteries. I was running it hoping that the coach batteries would charge up enough to use the battery booster to start the engine. I had the chassis battery disconnect turned off, but according to another post, it still feeds the tranny and engine computers.
I have been doing maintenance on my house batteries, water, etc. I even used a charger to desulfate them before our summer outings and they had been doing fine. This is the first time I have had a problem with them.
I am going to pull the batteries tomorrow or Monday and get them load-tested, although I am confident they will fail. If so, I will get replacements, and see about getting a battery maintainer.
For those who recommended the Battery minder or tender? Do these require 120V AC? At my storage location, I don't have access to any power. I will have to see if any of the outside plug work off the inverter to plug it in if so...and will this not cause a problem for the house batteries?
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UltraKen
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10/11/08 05:23pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Used coach avoids problems???
There is no simple answer, BUT if you buy carefully and know the market you can do very well buying used.
I bought a '96 with 59K miles from a respected member of this forum. It was in immaculate condition, had many enhancements added and none of the issues that would have been covered by the warranty. The coach looks brand new inside and out, and drives like new.
I've had a few minor repairs but nothing major. I'm the third owner and the first owner took the big depreciation hit, the second owner made it better than new, and I'm enjoying the bounty. :B
As I see it, the two major advantages for buying used are the tremendous savings potential and the testable liklihood that any factory issues have been resolved under warranty.
As always YMMV,
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UltraKen
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09/10/08 11:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Travel Cost Reality Check
You might find this spreadsheet useful.
I set it up to do two things.
1)to calculate trip costs
and
2)to compare different methods of travel.
To use, just click on each box that contains numbers in red. Enter your specific values. Numbers in black will be calculated automatically as you go through the spreadsheet.
If anyone thinks something might be added, let me know.
Here's the Spreadsheet
Here is my comparison of costs for a trip for my wife and I, who live in the Myrtle Beach area of SC. I have made a number of assumptions, for clarity's sake, and list them here.
FACT-1: :)My wife and I LIKE traveling in an RV, and consider it a sunk cost, so we do not need a "Future Cost vs Investment" analysis. If we could afford a bigger one we would buy it. And that is that.
FACT-2: :CMy wife (59) and I (62) have a number of medical situations that require a lot of DR visits, and a lot of drugs. We, so far, are traveling between Dr visits, with a goal to start consolidating them (if possible) for more trips.
FACT-3: :(Due to our health it is very hard to plan trips very far ahead of time, so we operate a lot with only a week or two notice to plan something.
RV COST ESTIMATE: Now, we just decided to run down next week for a stay on the FL panhandle, at a nice RV CG, near Destin,FL. I estimate our costs will be as follows:
Trip Length: 611 miles (one-way) or a total of 1222 miles.
Our MPG towing: 6.5
Our present cost per gal: $3.70
Our fuel cost estimate = 188 gals. for $695 RT.
Our site cost= $330 for 1-week, on the Gulf, on the water (beautiful site).
Our total Trip cost estimate = $330 + $695 = $1025 :R(estimated)
I then logged onto Orbitz, and got the price for 2-RT airline tickets, 1-economy car, and 1-Hotel on the beach, and the total price was=$2652.:E
Now.... neither of these included food and entertainment, which should be much cheaper on the RV side.
And we are holding open the option to stop over in Savannah on the way back for a couple of days, but haven't decided.
SO.......WE USE OUR RV, and from our perspective it is significantly cheaper, and much more flexible. Remember, In my past experience in Manufacturing Contract negotiations there is a cost for having a "Readiness to Serve" but there is also a certain offsetting value to having a "Readiness to Serve".
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UltraKen
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09/10/08 10:00am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is a class A for us? Need advice from class A owners.
Good for you, sir. I, too went through most of my life eating all the wrong foods, drinking those god awful Nehis, and traveling without seat belts. I made it through all those dasterdly times and am still kicking. My dad is 91 and he too is healthy as an ox. My DW will get up and pee@60 if she needs to. We do wear our seatbelts though. If I want a beverage while underway she can get that too. Big brother only thinks he knows what's best for us. If we followed everyone's advice we might just as well stay locked in our homes eating tofu sandwiches. (end rant). Check out the bunkhouse models although we traveled in a 27' Winnie when the kids were little and they had a ball. Now that we are older, we have a 40' DP and a little extra, see pic, for when the kids visit..enjoy your Class A. Don't forget, they can watch TV while underway too...Dennis
http://i34.tinypic.com/24np9w7.jpg width=250
http://i38.tinypic.com/34rx9ib.jpg width=250
:R
You are right. Most people don't have accidents. But about 40,000 people die in car accidents every year.
You want to gamble with your kids, fine. I really wish you well, but I think that we should remind newbies that all those movies with kids running loose in RVs are produced by people who don't have our experience. Sometimes the obvious needs to be pointed out.
After that it's up to each of us to find our own comfort level.
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UltraKen
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09/06/08 10:05am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is a class A for us? Need advice from class A owners.
The need for seat belts doesn't magically disappear in a motorhome. In fact, motorhomes are less structurally rigid than automobiles or trucks.
I strongly urge you to reconsider the so-called advantages of having several children loose in your vehicle as you drive. If toileting is a problem with 5 kids, just stop once an hour for a "pit" stop.
Ken, maybe it's me, but I'm not believing that we're in the minority in our feelings.:h
:W
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UltraKen
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09/06/08 09:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is a class A for us? Need advice from class A owners.
I just need advice about class A RV's and if what I THINK I know about them is correct.
What I THINK I know about class A's
1) Kids can go potty on I45 at 60mph
Kids shouldn't be out of seat belts at 60 mph in ANY vehicle.
...snip...
Having traveled in a large class "A", I shutter to think about your children becoming missiles in the event of an unexpected stop.
The need for seat belts doesn't magically disappear in a motorhome. In fact, motorhomes are less structurally rigid than automobiles or trucks.
I strongly urge you to reconsider the so-called advantages of having several children loose in your vehicle as you drive. If toileting is a problem with 5 kids, just stop once an hour for a "pit" stop.
Ken
96 Safari Sahara- 3530, 35', CAT 300
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UltraKen
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09/05/08 05:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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